My Own Private Island In The South Pacific

My "Eat, Pray, Love" In Two Weeks

Series

Part Four of Twelve

Taha’a, French Polynesia

A morning sailing, a day on my private “Motu Mahana,” champagne on the bridge at sunset. It was nearly perfect until I learned firsthand that the seasickness pills the pharmacist back home recommended don’t work! But the ever-charming Staff Captain made sure I had my dinner at the end of the day, and all was perfect again.

I was a very fortunate woman, as the Staff Captain invited me to the bridge at a very early 6:30 a.m. for our departure from Raiatea to Taha’a. Despite what you see in the movies about bridges of big ships, the bridge at that hour was peaceful and quiet. On deck were three officers, including Captain Rajko, Nenad (second in command,) and one of the second officers.

I am amazed at the technology that runs these big ships through these channels. The computer runs everything, but they control this big ship with a joystick if necessary. And it’s smaller than what my kids use for their video games at home. I got to sit in Nenad’s chair as we crossed the bay to Taha’a.

The view from the bridge is simply spectacular. The islands are mostly uninhabited, with small villages along the shore built on the harvesting of Tahiti’s famed black pearls. The Captains proved to be excellent tour guides, pointing out specific locations along the shoreline that had storied pasts or were significant points of interest in this tiny part of the world. Because of my severe lack of sleep, I drank too much coffee, and I am sure the officers were ready to get me and all my questions off the bridge. Maybe not, because I did get invited back for the 5 o’clock departure tonight for Bora Bora.

I rallied with a quick breakfast and met Melanie and Milton for the transport to the Motu Mohana, a private island owned by Paul Gauguin Cruises. Simply put, finding the right words to describe this is impossible. The island was PERFECT, set in a lagoon where we could kayak and snorkel. The beach is lined with lounge chairs, and all the buildings have grass roofs. It was what you envision when you think of the South Pacific. We were on the first tender to arrive on the island at 10 a.m., and Mel and I were the first to get our coconut drinks. Yes, we drank Pina Coladas all day from real hollowed-out coconuts. Maybe I’m just a simple Colorado girl, but this was beyond even my overactive imagination.

Unfortunately, Mother Nature did not cooperate as hoped, and we had quite a bit of rain. But that didn’t stop the fun or the fantastic BBQ put on by the crew, including everything from fish to chicken to hamburgers and hot dogs. You name it, and they had it. When the sun came out, we laid out. We filled our coconuts and huddled under a thatched roof when the rain came. Nenad joined our party for lunch and laughs, and despite the weather, you could not be anything but happy and dazzled with the day.

We left on the last tender, and Mel and I think we are the party animals of the ship (you have permission to laugh now!), and I quickly got ready for dinner and the visit to the bridge. After 6 p.m., you are expected to dress country club casual or dressy for the evening in the public spaces on the ship. Nothing formal, but we all did get quite dressy. My new group of friends and I met Nenad on the bridge and headed out to sea. With glasses of champagne in our hands, we stood at the front of the bridge as my Captain friends steered the ship out of the smooth, glass-like cove of water into the big, stormy ocean. The ship’s bow lifted above the big waves, then landed with a boom in the next.

Mel and I exchanged glances, and telepathically, we knew this would not bode well for us. After several big ups and even bigger downs, it hit. SEASICKNESS! Oh hell no! I immediately retreated to my room and hit the bed. As long as I was laying down I was ok, however I had dinner plans to meet Mel and Milton for dinner so I was motivated to try again.

I managed to stand in my big stilettos and make it to the dining room to meet Mel and Milton for dinner. Little did I know that Milton had invited the very handsome Staff Captain Nenad to join us, but unfortunately, despite the beauty of the man sitting next to me, I couldn’t sit through the experience, let alone consume food. I had to excuse myself and retreat again to my room until the rolling and swaying of the ship ceased. My strategy of horizontally holding on to the covers of my bed was the best I would do until it ended.

Nenad was gracious and phoned my room with a ten-minute advance notice that we would be dropping anchor, and I would feel better. He was entirely right. I was back in action almost immediately after the anchor hit the ocean floor. Mel met me for a late dinner, and while perfectly excellent, thanks to the attention of the headwaiter Arnold (who has a crush on Mel, I might add,) I was ready to sleep. While I don’t want to miss a minute of this vacation, I am exhausted and have an early morning. And frankly, this seasickness medicine is worthless. It doesn’t work, and it makes me itchy.

I am falling asleep as I write this and am smiling despite the quite literal ups and downs of the day.